Whole Spices in a Pressure Cooker: What Works

Whole spices work very well in a pressure cooker, but they release flavour faster and more strongly than in an open pot, so use about a quarter less than your usual amount. Always fry them in oil or ghee first, before adding liquid and closing the lid, and remove hard spices like bay leaf and cinnamon when you open the cooker. That's the short answer to cooking whole spices in a pressure cooker.

Most Indian kitchens run on a pressure cooker, for dal, rice, chana, mutton and chicken. The spices behave a little differently in there, and a few small changes make a big difference. For the basics of why whole spices are worth it, see our whole spices guide.

Why do whole spices taste stronger in a pressure cooker?

Heat and a closed lid. At about 15 psi, the pressure most stovetop cookers reach, water boils at roughly 120°C instead of 100°C. The higher temperature pulls flavour out of spices faster.

The sealed lid matters too. In an open pot, some of the lighter aroma escapes with the steam. In a cooker, far less gets out while it's under pressure, so it stays in the food. That's great for depth, but it means cloves and star anise can take over quickly.

How much should you reduce?

These are starting points. After a couple of tries, you'll know how your cooker and your family's taste line up.

Recipe: pressure cooker chicken curry with whole spices

A simple home-style curry, ready in about 35 minutes. Serves 4.

Ingredients

• 750 g chicken, bone-in, cut into curry pieces
• 3 tablespoons oil
• Whole spices: 3 cloves, 4 green cardamom pods (cracked), 1 cinnamon stick (about 3 cm), 1 bay leaf, 8 black peppercorns
• 2 medium onions, finely sliced
• 1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
• 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 1 teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 teaspoon coriander powder, ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
• 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
• ½ cup water

Method

1. Heat the oil in an open pressure cooker over medium heat.
2. Add the cinnamon, then after 15 seconds the cloves, cardamom, peppercorns and bay leaf. Stir for about 30 seconds until fragrant.
3. Add the onions and fry for 8 to 10 minutes until golden brown. Don't rush this.
4. Add the ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute until the raw smell goes.
5. Add the tomatoes and powdered spices. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the tomatoes break down and the oil starts to separate.
6. Add the chicken and salt. Stir well and cook for 3 to 4 minutes so the pieces are coated.
7. Pour in ½ cup water and scrape the bottom so nothing is stuck. This helps avoid a burn warning.
8. Close the lid and cook on medium heat for 2 whistles (roughly 8 to 10 minutes).
9. Let the pressure release on its own. Open, remove the cinnamon and bay leaf, and simmer uncovered for a few minutes if you want a thicker gravy.

Other things that go right, and wrong

Dal and chana

For dal, cook it plain with turmeric and salt, then temper whole spices separately and pour over. The tempering tastes much brighter this way than if the spices go into the cooker. For chana, a bay leaf, a small piece of cinnamon and 2 cloves added with the soaking water gives the chickpeas a gentle background flavour.

Rice and pulao

Pressure cooker pulao works well with the same spices as a stovetop pot, just a little less of each. See our guide to whole spices for pulao for the full spice list and a ghee rice recipe.

Don't skip the frying

The most common mistake is throwing whole spices straight into water and closing the lid. They'll give flavour, but it tastes flat and slightly bitter compared with spices bloomed in fat first. Our post on tempering whole spices covers the order and timing.

Watch the safety valve

Small spices like peppercorns and cumin can get carried up with foam. Keep the cooker no more than two-thirds full (half for beans and lentils that foam), and check the vent is clear before each use.

Spices that hold up to pressure

Whole black pepper is one of the best spices for pressure cooking. It gives steady heat without going bitter. Our Kerala black pepper is grown on vines climbing shade trees on Idukki farms and packed whole, and it's the one we use in cooker curries at home.

Frequently asked questions

Can you put whole spices directly in a pressure cooker?

You can, but they taste better if fried in oil or ghee first for 30 to 60 seconds. This releases the flavour into the fat, which then spreads through the dish. Spices added straight to water can taste flat.

Why does my pressure cooker curry taste too strong of cloves?

The high heat and sealed lid pull more flavour from cloves than an open pot does. Cut the number of cloves by a third or so, and remove them when you open the cooker. Star anise behaves the same way.

Should I remove whole spices after pressure cooking?

Remove bay leaves, cinnamon sticks and star anise, as they're hard and strong. Cardamom and peppercorns can stay. If you're keeping leftovers, taking out the cloves helps stop the flavour growing overnight.

Next time you set the cooker going, drop one clove fewer than usual and see if you notice. Most people find it tastes better, not weaker.