Kerala Mushroom Pepper Fry (Vegetarian)

Kerala pepper fry is usually made with chicken or beef, but mushrooms take to it just as well. They soak up the coconut oil, curry leaves and pepper, and in about 20 minutes you've got a dry, spicy side that works with rice, chapati or parotta.

Ingredients (serves 3 to 4)

• 400 g button mushrooms, halved or quartered
• 3 tablespoons coconut oil
• ½ teaspoon fennel seeds
• 15 shallots (or 2 onions), sliced
• 1 tablespoon ginger, chopped
• 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
• 2 green chillies, slit
• 2 sprigs curry leaves
• ¼ teaspoon turmeric
• 1 teaspoon coriander powder
• ½ teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder
• 1½ teaspoons black peppercorns, coarsely crushed, divided
• ½ teaspoon garam masala
• Salt

Method

1. Prep the mushrooms. Wipe them clean with a damp cloth rather than washing under running water. Wet mushrooms just release more water in the pan.
2. Fennel and shallots. Heat the coconut oil, add fennel seeds, then the shallots with a pinch of salt. Fry until golden, about 8 minutes.
3. Aromatics. Add ginger, garlic, green chillies and one sprig of curry leaves. Fry 2 minutes.
4. Powders. Lower the heat. Add turmeric, coriander, chilli powder and half the crushed pepper. Stir for 30 seconds.
5. Mushrooms. Turn the heat back up, add the mushrooms and salt, and cook on high, stirring, until the water they release has dried off and they start to brown, 8 to 10 minutes.
6. Finish. Add the rest of the pepper, the garam masala and the second sprig of curry leaves. Toss for 2 minutes until the masala clings.

What actually matters here

• High heat for the mushrooms. Low heat just stews them. You want them roasted, not boiled in their own water.
• Coarse pepper, added in two stages. Some early for depth, most at the end so the aroma survives.
• Don't crowd the pan. Use a wide one, or cook it in two batches.

Swapping the mushrooms out

The same masala works on paneer, soya chunks (soaked and squeezed dry), par-boiled baby potatoes, or cauliflower, if mushrooms aren't what you have on hand.

Pepper does most of the work in this dish, so it's worth starting with good pepper. We use whole Kerala black pepper, crushed just before it goes in the pan, from the Kerala spice combo or on its own.

Storing and reheating leftovers

It keeps in the fridge for about 2 days in an airtight box. Reheat in a hot, dry pan rather than the microwave, a minute or two tossing on the stove brings back some of the roast that a microwave takes away.

Frequently asked questions

Can I make this less spicy for kids?

Cut the crushed pepper by half and drop the green chillies. The dish loses some heat but keeps the pepper aroma, which is really the point of it.

Why did my mushrooms turn out watery instead of dry?

Usually the pan was too crowded, or the heat wasn't high enough once the mushrooms went in. Mushrooms release a lot of water fast, and if it can't evaporate quickly, they end up stewing instead of roasting.